Crossroads - A Quilt Tutorial featuring Gingham Girls!!!

I was so very excited when my wonderful friend Amy Smart of Diary of a Quilter announced that she can now add Fabric Designer to her list of many talents.   And when she asked if I wanted to make a quilt up using her debut line, Gingham Girls for Penny Rose Fabrics, I was absolutely delighted!!!!    And now I am super excited to get to share the finish with you all.   I call it Crossroads ;)

I just love Gingham Girls!!!  It is such a wonderful reminder of my childhood.  When I was little, my mother would make matching clothes for my twin sister and I.  She was always in red and I was always in blue (to help tell us apart ;)   And you better believe there were quite the few red and blue gingham summer outfits.    I was hoping to share a photo, but my Mom is out of town so there was no one to go searching through the old family albums.   Anyhow, you can just enjoy the pictures of these wonderful Gingham Girl Fabrics instead ;)

The fun thing about Crossroads is that I have been wanting to make it for sometime.  You might recall that I designed a block for Quiltmaker's Back to School Blog Party back here.   Well, ever since then, I have had it in the back of my mind just waiting for the perfect fabrics for the design.   And as soon as I saw Gingham Girls, I knew it was the perfect fit!!!   Doesn't it just make you want to have a summer picnic complete with hot dogs, hamburgers, and maybe even some fireworks!!!     

And like it says in the title . . . I have written a Quilt Tutorial for Crossroads!!!!   Yippee, now you can make your very own Crossroads quilt too :)   And it goes together super fast so you can totally have it ready in time for summer!!!     So let's get to it . . . 

Here's what you will Need:

(2)  Gingham Girls 5" Stackers 

2 Yards of Gingham Main Navy

2 1/2 Yards of White Solid

4 Yards of a Matching Print for Backing

STEP 1 - CUTTING

From the Gingham Girls 5" Stackers cut:

(16) 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" squares

(128) 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" squares  (that is 32 squares cut into fourths)  

From the Gingham Main Navy Print cut:

(4) 5 1/2" x width of fabric strips

(4) 3 1/2" x width of fabric strips

(7) 2 1/2" x width of fabric strips for binding  (which I actually already sewed and pressed before remember to take a picture ;)  

From the White Solid cut:

(4) 2 1/2" x width of fabric strips

(32) 2 1/2" x 8 1/2" rectangles

(64) 2 1/2" x 5 1/2" rectangles

(32) 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangles

(64) 2 1/2" x 4" rectangles

(64) 2 1/2" x 2" rectangles

STEP 2 - STRIP PIECING THE ROWS

Well start by doing a little strip piecing.  If you have never done strip piecing before it is just like it sounds.  You sew the strips together first and then sub-cut the size pieces you need.   And because you are sub-cutting, it helps to turn your stitch length down just a bit.

So we will start by stitching (2) 3 1/2" x WOF Navy Strips onto either side of a  2 1/2" x WOF White strip.  And the strips are folded to fit them in the picture, but you want to be sure and unfold them when you start sewing.

Lay the White Strip onto the Navy Strip with right sides together.  Align the raw edges as you stitch a 1/4" seam along the entire length of the strip.   Repeat to make 2 strip sets.

Now you can add your second Navy strip to the set.   Place the second Navy strip onto the now sewn together Navy and White strip with right sides together.  Align as you go and stitch a 1/4" seam along the entire edge.  Repeat for the second set as well.

Press the seam allowances outwards towards the Navy strips.    You will now have 2 strip sets measuring 8 1/2" x Width of Fabric.

And now, you can subcut the strips into the size units we need for the block.  Layout both strip sets folded in half on your cutting mat and subcut the units 2 1/2" wide.   You will cut a total of (32) 2 1/2" x 8 1/2" strips to make your short rows.    If you are new to sub-cutting strip piecing, there is a tutorial right here that will walk you through it in more detail ;)

Now repeat the same steps from above only use (2) 5 1/2" x WOF Navy Strips onto either side of a  2 1/2" x WOF White strip.  And again, you want to make 2 Strip sets and press them outwards.

Subcut these strips into units 2 1/2" wide as well.   You will cut a total of (32) 2 1/2" x 12 1/2" strips to make your long rows.  

So now you have (32) 2 1/2" x 8 1/2" short strip pieced rows  and (32) 2 1/2" x 12 1/2" long strip pieced rows.  You can set these aside for the moment as we move to the pieced rows ;)

STEP 3 - SEWING THE PIECED ROWS

The next rows are all piecing and again there will be a Short Row and a Long Row.   For the Short Row layout (2) 2" x 2 1/2" white rectangles, (2) 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" print squares, and (1) 2 1/2" x 5 1/2" white rectangles as shown below.   For the Long Row layout (2) 2 1/2" x 4" white rectangles, (2) 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" print squares, and (1) 2 1/2" x 5 1/2" white rectangles as shown below.   You want to make 32 of each row so it is easiest if you just stack an additional 31 pieces onto each pile so all 32 sets of both rows are laid out.

To sew the rows together we chain stitch to save time.  If your not sure what chain stitching is I explain it in the next photo.   We will start with the Short Row.   Place the 2" x 2 1/2" White rectangles onto the 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" Print squares and chain stitch a 1/4" seam on all 64 sets (32 on the right and 32 on the left).  Then place the right hand pieced units onto the center 2 1/2" x 5 1/2" rectangle with right sides together.  Chain stitch a 1/4" seam along all 32 sets.   Finally, place the left hand pieced units onto the center pieced 2 1/2" x 5 1/2" rectangle with right sides together.  Chain stitch a 1/4" seam along all 32 sets.    You will now have 32 Short Rows.  

So, if you weren't sure about chain stitching, it is simply when you don't clip your threads in between sewing units.   So once you have sewn the seam along the edge of your first set, just simply feed the next set through.  You will end up with a big "chain" of stitching sets.   You can do this for each of the three steps above and it will save you a lot of time and thread ;)

Now with your short rows sewn, you can use the exact same 3 steps as above to sew the Long Rows that you have laid out.  It is the exact same except that in the first step you will be placing the 2 1/2" x 4" White rectangles onto the 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" Print squares and chain stitching.   You will make 32 Long Rows.

And now, it is time for some pressing!!  Press the seam allowances of all of your 32 short and 32 long rows inwards towards the print squares.   (Always good to put on a favorite movie at this part ;)

And now you have (32) 2 1/2" x 12 1/2" Pieced Short Rows and (32) 2 1/2" x 16 1/2" Pieced Long Rows.  Again, these can be set aside for the moment.

STEP 4 -  ASSEMBLING THE BLOCK

And now to make the block, it is just simply starting with the center and adding layers to it.   Again, we will be chain stitching, so each time you layout your units for the block, you will want to stack them in piles of 16 so it is quick and easy to chain stitch them.

Start by laying out a 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" print square, (2) 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" white rectangles, and (2) 2 1/2" x 8 1/2" white rectangles as shown below.   Remember to stack 16 in each pile.

Place the 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" white rectangle onto the 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" print square with right sides together.   Chain stitch a 1/4" seam along the edge of all 16 sets.

You will want to chain stitch all 16 sets on the left hand side.  Then clip your threads.   Then, you are ready to chain stitch all 16 sets of the right hand side.   Easy as that.

Press the seam allowances outwards towards the white rectangles.   Then you can add the top and the bottom.   And it's just like adding the sides.   Place the top 2 1/2" x 8 1/2" rectangle onto the pieced center with right sides together and chain stitch 1/4" seam along the edge of all 16 units.   Then clip your threads and repeat for the bottom 2 1/2" x 8 1/2" rectangle chain stitching a 1/4" seam for all 16 units.

Press the seam allowances outwards again.  This makes the first layer of the block.  And now, you are ready to add the second layer.   Layout 16 Short Strip Pieced Rows on either side of the Center and 16 Long Strip Pieced Rows on both the top and bottom of the Center as shown.

And it is just like before.  Place a Short Row onto the Left hand side of the Center with right sides together and chain stitch a 1/4" seam along all 16 sets.  Clip your threads.   Then place a Short Row onto the right hand side of the Center with right sides together and chain stitch a 1/4" seam along all 16 sets.

Press the seam allowances Open (or to one side if you prefer :)   And just like before, you can now add the Long Row onto the top and bottom of the Center.  Chain stitch the 16 Top sets, clip the threads, and then chain stitch the 16 Bottom sets.

Press the seam allowances Open again (or to one side) .  This makes the second layer of the block.  And you are ready for the final third Layer.   Layout 16 Short Pieced Rows on either side of the Center and 16 Long Pieced Rows on both the top and bottom of the Center as shown.  (and sorry this picture is blurry, don't know what happened there ;)

Your an expert at this now ;)   Place a Short Row onto the Left hand side of the Center with right sides together and chain stitch a 1/4" seam along all 16 sets.  Clip your threads.   Then place a Short Row onto the right hand side of the Center with right sides together and chain stitch a 1/4" seam along all 16 sets.

Press the seam allowances Open (or to one side if you prefer :)   And you can now add the Long Row onto the top and bottom of the Center.  Chain stitch the 16 Top sets, clip the threads, and then chain stitch the 16 Bottom sets.

And Press the seams Open (or to one side) for the last layer and just like that your Block is done!!! And you have 16 of them each measuring 16 1/2" x 16 1/2" unfinished :)  And now it is time to sew up your quilt top!!!

STEP 5 - SEWING THE BLOCKS INTO A QUILT TOP

Start by laying the blocks out in 4 rows of 4 blocks.  Mix the block placement around until you get a color placement that is pleasing to the eye.

Now you are ready to sew the rows together.  To do this, simply place the first block onto the second block with right sides together. (shown in Row 1)   Align and pin the seams and sew a 1/4" seam along the edge.  Then place the third block onto the now sewn together first and second block with right sides together. (shown in Row 2).  Align and pin the seams and sew a 1/4" seam along the edge.  And finally, place the fourth block onto your now almost sewn together row.  (shown in Row 3)  Align and pin the seams and sew a 1/4" seam along the edge.   Repeat this process for all 4 rows.

Once the rows are all sewn together, time to move to the ironing board again.  I like to press the seam allowances open, but again, if you prefer you can press them to one side.  If you do that, be sure to press them in opposite directions for each row so they will nest.

And now, you are ready to sew the rows together into a quilt top.  This is the exact same process as sewing the blocks into rows, just on a larger scale.  Place Row 1 onto Row 2 with right sides together.  Align and Pin the seams.  Stitch a 1/4" seam along the pinned edge.  Then place Row 3 onto your now sewn together Row 1 and 2 with right sides together.  Again, align and pin and stitch a 1/4" seam along the pinned edge.   Then repeat this process to add Row 4.

Now all that is left is to press the seam allowances, again, I prefer open but you can press to one side if you like.   Now just sit back and smile!!!  Your Quilt Top is Finished!!!!   (and yes, I somehow forgot to take a picture of just the quilt top, so you get the quilt finished, but it gives you the general idea, right ;)

STEP 7 - FINISHING QUILT

So now it is time to turn that finished quilt top into a finished Quilt ;)  Time to  Baste It, Quilt It, and Bind It!!!  Which is a whole lot in one little sentence.  If you are new to quilting, you can see my Finishing Your Quilt Series of video tutorials that will walk you through Basting, Quilting, and Binding step by step ;)

When it came time to quilt mine I decided on an all over medium size swirl.   I used a favorite 402 Pearl thread that blends perfectly with the white and all the prints and I opted to use a puffier batting.  I just love how the higher loft gives it a more vintage feel.  

And the extra puff sure makes for some gorgeous texture!!!  Doesn't that just make you want to snuggle up with, maybe while you watch fireworks . . .  Yes, if you haven't guessed by now, I really like fireworks :)

Use the  (8) 2 1/2"x 42" binding strips you cut at the beginning to create a binding and add it to the quilt.  And your Done!!!

STEP 8 - ENJOY QUILT

And now, just sit back and enjoy your beautiful Crossroads Quilt!!!  It finishes at 64" x 64" so it is a great lap size.  And as you can see, with all that chain stitching it will go together super fast and is so much fun to make!!!   And Gingham Girls is just the perfect fabric for it to have that wonderful Summer Time Vintage Feel ;)

  

 I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial and if you make your own Crossroads Quilt I would love to see it!!  You can email me a picture at happyquiltingmelissa@gmail.com or add it to social media with the hashtag #happyquiltingwithmc ;)  I can't wait to see your Crossroads Quilts!!!

 Thank you so much to Amy Smart for taking me back to my childhood while I played with these fantastic fabrics!!!!   And for more Gingham Girls fun, be sure to Hop over to Amy's blog  to check out her awesome patterns and some more blogger goodies :)

Thanks for stopping in today to share this tutorial.  And thanks for popping in each and every day.  I am just so grateful to have this space to share my love of quilting!!!

Have a very Happy Quilting Day!!!

Linking up this Finish to Amanda's, Sarah's, and Myra's ;)