Here's what you will Need:
(20) Fat Quarters from Ava Rose (there are 21 in a bundle so just set 1 Fat Quarter aside)
3 Yards of Background Fabric - I used Daisy Tone on Tone Cream
2/3 Yard of an Ava Rose Print for Binding - I used Ava Rose Flower Blue
4 Yards of a Matching Print for Backing
STEP 1 - CUTTING
From each of the 20 Fat Quarters cut:
(1) 6 1/2" x 6 1/2" square - - - for a total of 20 squares
(2) 3 1/2" x 12 1/2" rectangle - - - for a total of 40 rectangles
(2) 3 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangle - - - for a total of 40 rectangles
(4) 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" squares - - - for a total of 80 squares
From the Background yardage cut:
(7) 3 1/2" x Width of Fabric Strips
(10) 3 1/2" x Width of Fabric Strips subcut into (20) 3 1/2"x 15 1/2" Rectangles
& (20) 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" Squares
(10) 3 1/2" x Width of Fabric Strips subcut into (20) 3 1/2"x 12 1/2" Rectangles
& (40) 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" Squares
(2) 3 1/2" x Width of Fabric Strips subcut into (20) 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" Squares
- - - for a total of 80 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" squares
From the Binding yardage cut (8) 2 1/2" X Width of Fabric Strips.
STEP 2 - MAKING THE SNOWBALL CENTERS
Before we can start sewing, we need to match some fabrics to make pairings. For each of your (20) 6 1/2" x 6 1/2" squares, match (4) 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" squares of a different print. I liked to match a geometric print to a floral print as it seemed to balance things well, but feel free to make your 20 pairings any way you like.
And now with your pairs, your ready to get going. We will start by drawing a diagonal line on the wrong side of each of the (4) 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" squares. That will be a total of 80 squares you are drawing a line on.
Then we will place the small squares onto the large squares as shown below, noting the direction of the diagonal drawn line. Now we are ready to start sewing. Stitch directly on the drawn line. You will do this for all 20 of your matching pairs.
But to save time, you can Chain Stitch. So rather than sewing all 4 small squares onto the large square at once, place your first corner on all 20 sets. Stitch directly on the line of the first set, but don't clip your threads. Just keep stitching on the first corner of all 20 sets making a nice long snake of large squares.
After sewing the first corner on all 20 sets, clip the threads between your pieces, and then add the second corner on all 20 sets in the same fashion. Then repeat the process for the 3rd and 4th corners. Oh, and of course, be sure to keep matching fabric small squares in each set. I just keep them in 4 stacks in the same order so I know I am always grabbing the right square :)
Once all 4 corner small squares have been sewn onto the large square, you are ready to trim. Place a ruler 1/4" away from the seam line. Trim away the excess triangle. Repeat for all 4 corners on all 20 sets.
Now move to the iron and press the seam allowances outward, towards the small now triangles. Repeat for all 20 of your now Snowball Centers.
STEP 3 - ADDING "PETALS" TO MAKE THE BLOCK
To add the "petals" we will first start with the two sides. Lay a 3 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangle of matching corner triangle fabric on either side of your Center Snowball unit with right sides together. Stitch 1/4" seam on both sides. Sew all 20 Snowball units this way.
Again, it will save you lots of time to chain stitch. So just add the right hand side rectangle first on all 20 center units, then clip your threads. Then add the left hand side rectangle on all 20 units and again, clip your threads. Fast and fun!!
Now over to the iron and press the seam allowances outwards towards the rectangle sides you just added. Press all 20 units. And now these can be set aside for just a second while we piece the top and bottom "petals".
Grab your pile of (80) background 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" squares and draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each of the 80 squares. Place the marked squares on a 3 1/2" x 12 1/2" rectangle with right sides together as shown below. Stitch a seam on the drawn line. There will be 2 rectangles of each fabric for a total of 40 rectangles.
And now you are ready to trim. Place a ruler 1/4" away from the seam line. Trim away the excess triangle. Repeat for both sides on all 40 rectangles. Then press all the seam allowances outwards towards the background triangles.
And now the "Petals" are pieced and ready to add to our Center Units we set aside. Place a pieced rectangle on to the top and bottom of a Center Unit with right sides together taking care to match the fabrics of the "petals". Pin in place and stitch a 1/4" seam on both the top and the bottom.
And no surprise here, again, we are going to save time by chain stitching. Add the top pieced rectangle on all 20 Center Units and clip your threads. Then add the bottom pieced rectangle on all 20 Center Units and clip your threads. And you will note, I didn't use pins as there are no seams to match. So if you are comfortable sewing longer strips together without pins, you can skip those ;)
Now back to the Ironing Board and this time, I like to press my seams open. I like to do this to avoid bulk, but if you prefer to not press your seams open, you can press them outwards, towards the top and bottom of the block :) Repeat for all 20 of your blocks!!
STEP 4 - SASHING THE BLOCKS
And now your blocks are made and we are going to sash them to give us that nice "floating" layout. Layout your Blocks and place the (20) 3 1/2" x 12 1/2" background rectangles on the side of the blocks and the (20) 3 1/2" x 15 1/2" background rectangles on the top of the blocks as shown. Now you are all ready to chain stitch ;)
Place the side sashing strip onto the block with right sides together and chain stitch all 20 Blocks and clip your threads. (Again, I didn't use pins here, but you can if you like to use pins when sewing longer strips :) Then place the top sashing strip onto the block with right sides together and chain stitch all 20 Blocks and then clip your threads.
Now simply press the seam allowances towards the sashing strips and your Blocks are sashed and ready to sew into a quilt top!!
STEP 5 - SEWING THE BLOCKS INTO A QUILT TOP
Start by laying the blocks out in 5 rows of 4 blocks. Mix the block placement around until you get a color placement that is pleasing to the eye. Then rotate your blocks in place to be sure they match the same layout with the sashing placement as shown below. (And ya, I didn't realize one of my blocks was misplaced until after I had sewn it together, so be sure and rotate that top right corner block 90 degrees to the right so it is in the same placement as the second block in that row.)
Now you are ready to sew the rows together. To do this, simply place the second block onto the first block with right sides together. (shown in Row 1) Pin (if you like) and sew a 1/4" seam along the edge. Then place the third block onto the now sewn together first and second block with right sides together. (shown in Row 2) Pin* and sew a 1/4" seam along the edge. And finally, place the fourth block onto your now almost sewn together row. (shown in Row 3) Pin* and sew a 1/4" seam along the edge. Repeat this process for all 5 rows.
Once the rows are all sewn together, time to move to the ironing board again. Press the seam allowances towards the sashing rectangles. This will be in the opposite direction for each row.
And now, you are ready to sew the rows together into a quilt top. This is the exact same process as sewing the blocks into rows, just on a larger scale. Place Row 1 onto Row 2 with right sides together. Align and Pin the seams and then add a few more pins to secure the rows. Stitch a 1/4" seam along the pinned edge.
Then place Row 3 onto your now sewn together Row 1 and 2 with right sides together. Again, align and pin and stitch a 1/4" seam along the pinned edge. Then repeat this process to add Row 4 and Row 5.
Press the Seams open, and again, if you prefer, you can always press them to one side.
STEP 6 - TRIMMING QUILT TOP & ADDING SIDE BORDERS
And to finish off that floating look, we are going to add a border from our Background fabric. To do this, trim the selvage edge from the (7) 3 1/2" x WOF Background strips. Then place them right sides together, and stitch them end to end on the short side. This will make one very long strip. Press the seam allowances to one side.
From the long strip cut (2) 75ish" strips and (2) 66ish" strips. I say "Ish" because I like to add a little wiggle room in my borders so I will cut mine anywhere between 76-77 and 67-68. I normally just lay them out by the side of my quilt and cut them according to the sides of my quilt plus a little extra. But if you like to cut borders to the exact length, cut (2) 75" and (2) 66".
Place the (2) 75" strips along the sides of the quilt top with right sides together. Align and Stitch a 1/4" seam along the edge. If you gave yourself wiggle room, trim the excess border strip hanging over the quilt top. (I use the quilt top as a guide to trim :)
Press the seam allowances towards the Border strips. Now just add the top and bottom borders in the same fashion. Place the top and border strips onto the quilt top with right sides together. Align and stitch a 1/4" seam along the edge.
Press the seam allowances towards the border strip and then sit back and smile!!! Your Quilt Top is Finished!!!!
STEP 7 - FINISHING QUILT
So no it is time to turn that finished quilt top into a finished Quilt ;) Time to Baste It, Quilt It, and Bind It!!! Which is a whole lot in one little sentence. If you are new to quilting, you can see my Finishing Your Quilt Series of video tutorials that will walk you through Basting, Quilting, and Binding step by step ;)
STEP 8 - ENJOY QUILT
Linking up this finish with Amanda's, Sarah's, and Myra's ;)